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{"id":2827,"date":"2015-04-23T14:32:21","date_gmt":"2015-04-23T14:32:21","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/urban-plains.com\/2016\/?p=2827"},"modified":"2016-03-08T23:24:26","modified_gmt":"2016-03-08T23:24:26","slug":"cultivating-wine-culture-in-the-midwest","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/urban-plains.com\/2016\/culture\/cultivating-wine-culture-in-the-midwest\/","title":{"rendered":"Cultivating Wine Culture in the Midwest"},"content":{"rendered":"

Words by Kristin Doherty | Video by Grace Wenzel, Annelise Tarnowski, Janet Eckles, Cameron Johnson, and Kenny Schwarz | Audio by Amanda Horvath | Design by Raeann Langas | April 23, 2015<\/p>\n

Midwestern wines are not foxy.<\/p>\n

They used to be foxy \u2014 a term wine snobs use to describe a bottle that tastes like cotton candy, Concord grape juice with alcohol, or a grape Jolly Rancher.<\/p>\n

But by the 1980s, Midwestern winemakers had had enough of this \u201cfoxy\u201d moniker and were tired of Napa Valley competitors rolling their eyes at Midwest bottles. Since then, the flyover region has been working tirelessly to produce better wines, bolster a more lucrative wine industry, and garner widespread recognition for the area\u2019s grapes.<\/p>\n

And there\u2019s still plenty of work to be done. While wine culture \u2014 marked by the presence of local wineries and vineyards, expert sommeliers, and consumer appreciation \u2014 has grown in the Midwest, Midwest winemakers are still struggling to bring the region up to par with the West Coast\u2019s vibrant wine scene.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe always had grape cultivars that we could grow for wine, but some of the market didn\u2019t prefer those flavor profiles,\u201d says Randall Vos, a professor of horticulture at Des Moines Area Community College.<\/p>\n

\"1\"<\/a><\/figure>\n

The University of Minnesota\u2019s breeding program, which launched in the mid-\u201980s, changed that. It focused on creating cold-hardy, disease-resistant, and high-quality grapes that could survive Midwestern winters \u2014 and please consumers\u2019 palates. The program hasn\u2019t stopped evolving. \u201cNow, there are a couple of varieties that can be grown throughout the state,\u201d Vos says, noting a few of the U of M\u2019s medal-winning wines<\/a>, like La Crescent and Marquette. \u201cThose cultivars really kind of unlocked the Midwest\u2019s potential.\u201d<\/p>\n

These high-quality, flavorful wines produced across the Midwest cultivated a boom in wine production. In 2011, climate-resistant grapes brought $401 million and more than 12,000 jobs into the United States economy, in the Midwest and other regions.<\/p>\n

But despite the growth in production, the Midwest still lags behind California wine country in terms of culture. Winemakers in the Heartland still have more hoops to jump through before they\u2019ll feel on the same level as producers in more established regions. And those hoops aren\u2019t easily jumped.<\/p>\n

Historically, the Midwest hasn\u2019t been a hub for wine enthusiasts, partially because there\u2019s just not as much wine here. There are more than three times as many wineries in California than there are in the Midwestern states combined \u2014 which means there are fewer places for vinos to put their expertise and passion to work. \u201cThere\u2019s only so many opportunities for Master Sommeliers in the Midwest to be compensated at a level that is fair,\u201d says Matt Citriglia, a certified Master on the Court of Master Sommeliers. In fact, he knows of a few who would love to move to the Midwest \u2014 if they could find an appropriate job.<\/p>\n

Studying to become a Master often involves mentorship from a current Master. And because fewer than 15 of the 140 Master Sommeliers in North America live in the Midwest, Midwest-based aspiring somms have to travel for proper training. That’s the case for Leslee Miller, a certified sommelier living in Minneapolis, who’s put off preparing for the exam because her wine consulting business keeps her so busy. But creating an environment that advances these experts is important: They’re the ones who foster a robust wine culture by working in fine dining and educating consumers. And so even if a Midwestern city\u2019s wine culture improves in terms of vineyards \u2014 like those in Ohio, Citriglia says \u2014 without these key experts, it\u2019s hard to play catch up with cities like San Francisco.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Wines<\/a>

Wines produced in the Midwest tend to have more acid and fruit flavors than traditional European varietals.<\/p><\/div>

<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

But it\u2019s not just the size of the cities; the consumers are partly to blame. Midwesterners consume less wine than other Americans: On the list of states that consume the most wine , only three Midwestern states<\/a> sit on the top half. Instead, Midwesterners tend to spend their time drinking beer<\/a>.<\/p>\n

This doesn\u2019t mean the Midwest is out of the wine game yet, though. State wine associations and other wine-friendly groups are actively trying to increase awareness of what the Heartland has to offer. In the last decade, more competitions solely for cold-climate grapes have popped up, like the Cold Weather Wine Competition in Minnesota and the Mid-American Wine Competition<\/a> in Iowa (which Vos coordinates). “Our goal is to promote the wine and the grape cultivars of our regions,\u201d Vos says. \u201cThe whole point is to increase recognition.\u201d<\/p>\n\n

\"3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

While promotion helps get Midwest wines into the limelight, scientific advancement will be key, too. Murli Dharmadhikari, the director of Iowa State University\u2019s Midwest Grape and Wine Industry Institute, is confident that continually improving hybrid grapes will help the Midwest gain more recognition as a wine force to be reckoned with. “As the quality of wine improves, the consumption of wine will increase,\u201d he says. \u201cAfter that, more gourmet restaurants will open, wine tourism will increase, and this will make [Midwestern] wineries a destination to visit.”<\/p>\n

Sommeliers, scientists, and grape growers are vital. But at the heart of it all, wine is about its drinkers. \u201cConsumers are getting a lot smarter,\u201d Miller says. \u201cThey\u2019re very savvy these days about wine, and they want to know more and more. They\u2019ll taste pretty much anything and everything they can get their hands on.”<\/p>\n

And what Midwesterners get their hands on won\u2019t taste foxy.<\/p>\n

Wine culture is one thing. But wine cultured?
\nThe UP staff certainly isn\u2019t that.<\/h3>\n