With an increased demand for sustainable practices and changing consumer habits, plant-based meats are booming in Midwestern markets.
By: Skylar Lathrop
Plant-based diets and meat alternatives are on the rise and more accessible than ever. Over the last decade, the U.S. has seen a 29% increase in demand for products like milk alternatives, plant-based cheese, and plant-based meats like the Beyond Burger.
Missouri Medicine data from 2021 shows that the number of people following a vegan diet in the U.S. increased by more than 600% from 2014 to 2018. Researchers attribute the increase in plant-based diets to Americans pursuing a healthier lifestyle and reducing their environmental footprint, likely due to an increased awareness of the health risks associated with meat-heavy diets. A study on the association between poultry and disease from UK Biobank has shown that regular red meat increases the risk of heart disease by 15% and diabetes by 30%, sparking a rise in health-conscious diets.
“You are still supporting farmers by buying plants; our health and environment can only improve if we are all trying to help each other,” said Jeri Thurber, a vegan activist at Food Not Bombs. This nonprofit organization supplies unhoused individuals with home-cooked vegan meals created from produce that would otherwise be discarded.
Others have adopted a vegan diet due to concerns about meat consumption’s sustainability. According to the International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health, livestock production accounts for 18% of global greenhouse gas emissions. Some Americans have expressed uneasiness at the state of climate change and are working to reduce their environmental footprint.
Jeri Thurber decided to adopt a vegan diet more than 10 years ago due to concerns over animal cruelty. During her work with Food Not Bombs, Thurber has observed the attitudes of vegans and non-vegans in large Midwestern cities. While handing out vegan meals to those in need, she has been met with warmth from individuals who may not have otherwise tried a plant-based meal.
Because of this experience, Thurber encourages even the biggest meat lovers to try swapping a few of the animals on their plates for a leafy alternative.
“Even if you’re pro-meat, try increasing the number of days that you don’t eat meat. There’s no downside to that,” Thurber said. “It’s cheaper to eat beans and plant-based as long as you’re not buying commercialized plant-based items. It’s healthier. It’s better for your body. It’s better for the environment.”
An Alternative to Meat
While the Midwest is typically associated with meat-rich diets, the increased availability of plant-based alternatives has caused a shift. A ‘butcher shop’ in Minneapolis seeks to revolutionize how Midwesterners conceptualize plant-based meat products. A pair of culinary siblings, Aubry and Kale Walch, started Herbivorous Butcher in 2014, bringing their meatless products to the Minneapolis farmers market. After two years of success and cultivating a loyal fan base, the Walch siblings made the leap, opening a storefront in 2016.
As the first vegan ‘butcher shop’ in the U.S., the Walches embrace the oxymoron in their name. They emphasize the need for plant-based alternatives due to the intensifying pressures on water, land, fertilizer, and fuel, citing the increase in global emissions of carbon and methane as well as increased water pollution. The Walch siblings advocate for a plant-based approach by providing meat substitutes rich in flavor and packed with protein.
“We started with our Italian brats and jelly turkey, then later started making Huli Huli and Korean ribs,” said Collin Sandoe, the kitchen manager for Herbivorous Butcher. “Trying to emulate the texture and flavor of standard cuts of meat really sets us apart.”
When the Walches went vegan, they missed the foods they grew up eating. Inspired to replicate the texture, taste, and flavor of the meals she had tried while growing up in Guam, Aubry Walch was the catalyst for the development of Herbivorous Butcher. Traditional dishes like Lumpia and Huli Huli ribs inspired the diverse flavors of the shop.
“I had spent so many years in vegan activism groups only to realize that the smart way to get people to change how they eat wasn’t by yelling at them, but by making an animal protein alternative they actually wanted to eat,” said Aubry Walch. “[Our] product can replace daily meat consumption one-to-one. This is a product for family dinners and holidays that grandmas wouldn’t scoff at.”
After pitching the idea of a brick-and-mortar business on Kickstarter, the siblings quickly raised $60,000. While its production cost is higher than that of other businesses Herbivorous Butcher seeks to provide products to consumers at affordable prices despite higher labor and ingredient cost.
“We’re making things, turning them out on a countertop, and putting them into pans by hand. We haven’t mechanized or automated the process of our cooking yet,” said Sandoe. “This does mean that our labor costs are higher than Beyond or Impossible. Therefore, they have lower prices.”
As the business thrives and expands its customer base, Herbivorous Butcher hopes to reach customers who are apprehensive about trying a meat alternative. Sandoe shared that with a diverse menu, there is something for everyone, no matter how often they consume meat.
“We hope to keep this industry viable and thriving. There will always be someone out there who wants a vegan burger,” Sandoe said.
A Meaty Perspective
The decrease in meat consumption has raised eyebrows among members of several communities, including local governments.
On a governmental level, some states have passed laws to ban the advertisement of meat products that are not derived from animals. In Nebraska, Gov. Jim Pillen stated a desire to “stand up to radicals who want to use fake meat to put Nebraska [agriculture] out of business.”
Lee Tesdell, an Iowa rancher, began raising sheep in 1989.
“Lamb sales are income for me… I appreciate the benefits of having livestock on my farm,” Tesdell said. “I am glad to see more market options for fellow farmers, whether for plant-based alternatives or meat.”
Tesdell shared that while meat plays an important role in his life as a primary source of income, he often eats vegetarian meals from his garden.
“Meat consumption has stayed quite steady… many people eat meat every day,” Tesdell said. “I don’t anticipate that meat production will change much in the next five years.”
John Kennedy, a food scientist in meat production, shared his perspective as someone heavily involved and dependent upon the meat production industry.
When asked if he has observed changes in consumer attitudes toward meat over the last decade, Kennedy replied, “Absolutely. Consumers today have become smarter with what foods they’re putting into their bodies and how food companies’ manufacturing practices relate to the food they consume.”
Like many consumers, Kennedy noted an increase in the availability of plant-based products at local grocery stores and restaurants.
“Veganism is still a very small demographic in the U.S. and most people still eat meat today,” Kennedy said. “Nutritional differences aside, the economic impact of agriculture industries is a big sector in our economy.”
As plant-based options continue appearing on the market, it is becoming clear that this trend won’t disappear soon. Plant-based and farming communities will seek to create a happy medium in the ongoing landscape of health culture.
“Plant-based “meat” is one more option available to the consumer,” Tesdell said. “I am glad to see more market options for fellow farmers, whether it’s for plant-based products or meat.”